BPAL: Yule Imps and Sundries

[gwydion]

The Frimps:

DRAGON’S MILK (Ars Draconis): (Company says: A truly fae nectar! Dragon's blood resin and honeyed vanilla.)

In bottle: Mostly dragon’s blood, sweetened with honey and softened with a touch of vanilla. Wet: A touch more balanced on the skin though the hierarchy remains the same. It’s pretty and well suited to its concept. Dry: The vanilla comes out on the dry down, gradually over taking the resin.

G’MILUT CHASADIM 2012 (LE, Will Call Exclusive,): (Company says: Honeyed pomegranate, rose, myrrh, osmanthus, and wild plum.)

In bottle: Honey dominant with strong plum support. I’d call the pomegranate and rose weak thirds. Myrrh and osmanthus are both easily discerned with the myrrh the stronger of the two. The honey, plum, and pomegranate combination is absolutely lovely, but when you add the myrrh the effect is too heavy for me. Add in the way roses turn on my skin, I’m going to have to give this one a pass, though it would likely work for someone who is not having the trouble I have been having with some incense blend and who’s skin plays well with rose.

NEMESIS (Excolo): (Company says: Cypress, ginger, fig, dried rose, red patchouli, tonka bean and cyclamen.)

In bottle: Cypress dominant. I’d call the rose and cyclamen second. The patchouli is fairly subtle here and supporting the cypress. The tonka, ginger, and fig form their own little faction. The tonka is pervasive, the fig blending well with it. The ginger is sharp and distinct. The blend is absolutely lovely and if I could wear rose, I suspect I’d really enjoy this. No skin test for rose.

TENOCHTITLAN (Excolo): (Company says: The greatest of all Aztec cities, and capital of their empire. Amber, hyssop, coriander, epazote, Mexican sage, prickly pear and Mexican tulip poppy.)

In bottle: Strongly floral. The Amber is strong support for the tulip poppy. The herbs are third strongest, but well represented. I’m not familiar with some of the ingredients, so I can not tell you which is epazote and which prickly pear. The sage is lovely and the coriander goes well with the other herbal notes, with the hyssop giving it a hint of mint. It’s quite lovely and well suited to its concept. Wet: significantly more hyssop on the skin, to the point that it’s hyssop dominant with sage and poppy in close second. The herbs and plants come out beautifully as it warms, giving a Mexican brush sort of feel to it. I’m not hyssop’s biggest fan, but this is a gorgeous setting for it. Dry: It’s surprisingly rich on the dry down. The amber ends up dominant, and it does something lovely with the hyssop and either epazote and/or prickly pear.

Ordered:
THE ADORATION OF THE MI-GO 2012 (LE, The Miskatonic Valley Yuletide Faire, Yule): (Company says: Luminous, otherworldly wet and piquant odors mingling with black incense, the pitch-stench of Yuggoth, and fungal lichens.

In bottle: Sweetly insencey Aquatic with some ozone. The pitch and lichen give the ocean scent a sharp foresty edge, which is gorgeous. The incense is beautifully blended with the other notes, being pervasive, but hard to tease apart because it fits so well with the elements. This is a more complex cousin to the lab’s Cthulhu blend. I have been having trouble with the ocean accord on my skin for a few years, but this is so lovely, I’m going to skin test. Wet: even more amazing on my skin. I’d swear there were baneberries or mistletoe berries in there. It is as in the bottle only more so. My skin chemistry turns the ocean accord a little, but the pitch and lichen are doing a good job of holding things together, so that I have hopes of being able to really wear this. Dry: Mostly ocean with some lichen.

THE BLACK TEMPLE BURLESQUE TROUPE 2012 (LE, The Miskatonic Valley Yuletide Faire, Yule): (Company says: Cacao, black musk, and tobacco absolute.)

In bottle: Musk, Musk, Musk, Musk! Yep, that’s musk. The strong cacao note blends with this beautifully, with the tobacco as a soft accent. I thing this would be gorgeous on most people, but it’s likely too much musk for me. Wet: Still strongly black musk dominant. The cacao is stronger and more separate on the skin. The tobacco is still soft, but a touch more distinct. These notes work well together, but it’s a bit intense on my skin. Dry: Mostly musk with a ghost of the other elements.

CHESTNUTS ROASTING ON AN OPEN PYRE 2012 (LE, BPTP, Atmosphere Spray, Yule): (Company says: A holiday tradition! The festive scent of chestnuts being roasted on Arkham's neighborhood sacrificial pyre: chestnuts, sweet incense, smoldering oak and cedar logs, evocation herbs, and a hint of brown sugar.

Review: Unusual. Smoky nuts are the first impression, with scorched brown sugar the next most dominant after smoke and nuts. It’s the best smoke scent I’ve come across in a fragrance, very natural rather than chemical. The cedar is next strongest, with oak in support. The incense is subtle and works well with the other elements, tying them together. The herbs are soft, but give the incense an unusual edge. This is lovely and very different from the usual atmosphere spray options. Over time, the smoke and sugar are longest lasting, which is a little odd, but interesting.

ECONOMIC RECOVERY 2012 (LE, Black Friday/Small biz Saturday/Cyber Monday freebie imp): (Company says: a fun little blend of traditional money-generating herbs, resins, and flowers, including patchouli, ambrette seed, bergamot, Irish moss, rice flower, and thyme.)

In bottle: Patchouli dominant with ambrette support. The feel is strongly resinous The moss is a week second with bergamot third. The flowers are delicate and not well differentiated. There is a slightly chalky feel to the herbs. Wet: The patchouli is a little less intense on the skin. The herbal elements are a bit stronger, though it’s still resin dominant with the moss now in strong support. The flowers are softer. It’s better than in the imp, but it’s not really gelling with my skin chemistry. Dry: pPatchouli with some herbs. Not really my thing.

FOREVER IS MERCY BUILT 2012 (LE, Will Call Exclusive): (Company says: Tamarind, tonka bean, patchouli, golden amber, and white fig.)

In bottle: Incense dominant, by which I mean the Amber and patchouli, while distinct work together to be the strongest first impression. I’d call the amber slightly stronger, but that could be because the rich, juicy tamarind is providing strong support to it. The fig supports the tamarind more gently. The tonka sweetly ties it all together. It’s lovely and sexy. Wet: Tamarind moves into the strongest position with amber and fig support. The tonka strengthens; the patchouli steps into the background, soft and well behaved, but still distinct. It is a definitely a fruity blend now as opposed to the incensey first impression: different, but still lovely. Dry: Mostly tonka, some amber, and a bit of fig.

THE GENTLEMAN 2012 (LE, Turn of the Screw,Yule): (Company says: A dapper cologne, distant and refined: white musk, lime rind, and rosemary water with tobacco leaf and lilac.)

In bottle: White musk dominant with strong lilac in second. Tobacco is third strongest providing lovely support for the musk. The lime loans the lilac a tartness. The rosemary winds through everything, soft, but blending beautifully with the musk and tobacco in particular. Wet: Not as lovely. The Lime pushes it’s way to the strongest spot, turning the whole thing a bit shrill and drowning the rosemary and lilac. The musk and tobacco try to push back, but the blend’s just not as subtle and complex as in the imp. Dry: Rind mostly with some musk

JUPITERIAN PHOENIX 2012 (LE, Anniversaries): (Company says: A blessing of optimism, prosperity, and sound judgment: sarsaparilla, juniper berries, Himalayan cedar, Terebinth pine, sweet clove, green tea, nutmeg, and hyssop.)

In bottle: Strongly woody with the pine and cedars doing lovely things together. Hyssop, juniper, and sarsaparilla form a second tier of support. I am not fond of juniper, and it’s definitely noticeable here, but it blends well. Green tea is acting as a sort of glue, tying thing together. The spice is soft, but lovely with the other notes, particularly the woods and the tea. It makes me think of the unlaquered interior of a wooden box used to store pungent seasoning and tea. It’s lovely in a 19th century sort of way. Wet: even better on the skin as the warmth brings out the individual qualities of the components. Pine is now dominant over the cedar with the hyssop moving into second. Cedar is third, juniper, clove, tea, and sarsaparilla are forth. I’m loving this. Dry: Woody goodness with hyssop support, and a hint here and there of the rest. Lovely.

KNECHT RUPRECHT 2012 LE, The Miskatonic Valley Yuletide Faire, Yule): (Company says: The snow-covered foliage of the Black Forest and the fruit and woods of apple and almond trees.)

In bottle: Unexpectedly chalky. It seems to be the better of the lab’s snow accords with strong fruit as second strongest. The woods and nuts blend well with the snow note, supporting it. I like the way the snow and apples contrast to create a crisp, chilly impression. The almond is smoothing things out, mostly. Wet: Way more almond on my skin to the point of being almond dominant with snow as second. Apple and woods are third and forth respectively. I’m surprised there is no pine here, as it smells like there is a scouch, maybe as part of the snow accord. Dry: Mostly snow with a bit of wood.

MERCURIAL PHOENIX 2012 (LE, Anniversaries): (Company says: A blessing of wit, opportunity, and skill: yellow sandalwood, bergamot, gum mastic, gum Arabic, lavender, lemon grass, angelica root, and anise.)

In bottle: Lemon grass dominant, like whoa, with a strong presence from the gums and the bergamot. The lavender supports the lemon grass; the angelica supports the gum. The bergamot winds through everything, dancing with all the notes. Sandalwood is a soft canvas to paint the other scents on. The anise is very understated. Wet: Lemon grass! Lots and lots of it. The gums, bergamot, lavender, and angelica are still discernible, but this is mostly about the lemon grass. It’s really disappointing. Dry: Lemon grass and a bit of sandalwood mostly.

MILES 2012 (LE, Turn of the Screw,Yule): (Company says: A charming, mischievous, and inexplicably sinister blend of balsam of Peru, honey, skin musk, and black pepper.)

In bottle: The pepper really shines in this. I’ve never smelled a pepper dominant cologne before. Fascinating. The balsam and honey work together to form a canvass for the pepper. The skin musk is soft and sexy. Wet: Still pepper dominant with skin musk second and that lovely sweet balsam/honey canvass. I am not a big balsam fan, but this is a clever usage of it. Dry: Mostly balsam with a peppery edge.

NABBY GARDNER'S HOLIDAY GLOBULES 2012 (LE, The Miskatonic Valley Yuletide Faire, Yule): (Company says: Deck your halls with Nabby Gardner's Holiday Globules — the colors are out of this world! Luminous and possibly sentient, they make a fine addition to your holiday décor!)

In bottle: Fruity and sweet. I’m having a hard time parsing out the individual fruits, maybe mango? Kumquat? Some sort of rich red berry for sure and likely pomegranate. It also smells a bit like swedish fish. It may have that fizzy carbonation scent they use for things like sparkling cider or champagne. It’s definitely a good fit for the concept. Wet: The thing I’m thinking is kumquat and the fizzy ozone carbonation thing are strongest with the pomegranate and berries a close second. I’m now suspecting incense such as nag chasmpa and maybe some metallics like tin or silver or iron, though I’m having trouble sorting out which. The metallics slowly creep into second place with the carbonation staying dominant. Dry: Mostly incense, with metallic traces.

NES GADOL HAYA SHAM 2012 (LE,Yule): (Company says: Nun, the Snake: nuun, nothing. Nah.Å¡, in modern Arabic, means bad luck. Represented by scents of loss and remembrance: opoponax and lemon verbena. Gimel, the Camel: the Ship of the Desert. Represented by scents of abundance, fortitude, and determination: patchouli, heliotrope, pomegranate, and almond. He, the Window: sometimes used to represent the Unutterable Name of God, this is the window in our souls through which God's light touches us. Represented by scents of clarity and piety: frankincense, myrtle, and hyssop. Shin, the Tooth: also stands for Shaddai, one of the names of God. The hand formed into shin acts as a priestly blessing. Represented by scents of strength, generosity, kindness, and benediction: carnation, myrrh, red poppy, and hibiscus. !)

In bottle: Complex and a bit overwhelming. Patchouli, heliotrope, almond, and hyssop swim to the top. Other quickly noticeable notes are opoponax, frankincense, and myrrh. It’s primarily and incense blend with a foody floral combination underneath. Wet: It makes me think of burnt sugar a bit. The pomegranate swims towards the top of the incense pond, quickly becoming dominant. The carnation and poppy separate out from the scrum and support the pomegranate. The incense stays strong, but forms a background on which the brighter elements play. Sharp edges pop out now and then as it warms. Dry: Mostly frankincense, with the other incense notes in support and some heliotrope. Not for me.

OAK, PINE, AND MISTLETOE 2012 (LE, BPTP, Candles, Yule): (Company says:
Oak bark, pine pitch, and blood red mistletoe berries.)

Review: Okay, this is lovely. It’s pine dominant with a strong mistletoe berry second. The oak is a wonderful support for the pine. It’s a lovely evocation of December, if a touch delicate for a candle.

OLD MAN ACKERMAN'S INSTRUCTIONAL TOYS 2012 (LE, BPTP, Candles, Yule): (Company says: Educational toys for tots! Learn non-Euclidean calculus, catoptric theory, quantum physics, and the mysteries of Elder magic the fun way! An ancient baetylus floating within an array of bizarre trapezoidal figures, glimmering tubes, rusting spheres, and whirling gogs formed from peculiar metals, glowing tektites, strangely suspended lead mirrors, and eerie driftings of meteoric dust.)

In bottle: Very bright and citrussy. I’m guessing grapefruit dominent, with a lot of metallics in support. It’s got a strong carbonated element such as in the lab’s champagne blends. It’s well designed for the concept. Wet: Fizz dominant, with metallics second and citrus and some sort of resin third. On paper, this shouldn't work on me but it’s making a fair bid to trying. Dry: Tight, bright, metallics with a touch of citrus. Against all odds, it’s a keeper.

PETER QUINT 2012 (LE, Turn of the Screw,Yule): (Company says: Leather, balsam, ambergris, and bay laurel.)

In bottle: Lots of balsam with ambergris as a strong second. The bay and leather are interesting with the balsam and ambergris. The effect is unusual. The leather is quite soft here, the bay giving and herbal edge to the resin. Wet: More bay on the skin, moving up to being almost equal to the ambergris. The balsam’s edges soften, letting it work better with the ambergris accord. The leather comes out more and coallesses better while staying understated. Wet: This wears beautifully. The resins mellow and the leather comes into it’s own. I can’t believe how good this is.

THE SAILING STONES OF DEATH VALLEY 2009 (LE, Convergence XV exclusive):

In bottle: Very perfumey. I’m guessing maybe musk and definitely some resins. It’s over some lovely desert vegetation scents. It’s complex despite the effects of aging, but I don’t know enough of the names of desert plants to be much use. There is something dusty underneath that may be dry soil and a tough of stone. Wet: Still musky and resiny on the surface with all the pretty desert stuff underneath. On my skin there seems to be ozone. I’m a bit disappointed as I so wanted more desert and less musk. I suspect we’re looking at an aging issue combining with my skin chemistry’s amping of musk. There’s nothing objectively wrong with it, but I t5hink my expectations were too high. Dry: Mostly ozone over some lingering desert vegetation.

THE SHIVERING BOY 2012 (LE,Yule): (Company says: The scent of frozen, dormant vineyards, bitter sleet, and piercing ozone, hurled through labdanum, benzoin, and olibanum.

In Bottle: Ozone and the snow note I liked in death of a gravedigger. It’s a non-peppermint mint, maybe spearmint. The ozone and snow together are quite strong, with the resins in support. I like it well enough. Wet: Mostly snow, the resin s are still in support with the ozone damping down a little to join them. I think the wood is a little stronger and I’d swear this has stone accord too. It suits its concept beautifully. Dry: Mostly snow and benzoin.

SHORTBREAD SNOWFLAKES 2012 (LE, BPTP, Bath Oil, Yule): (Company says: Coconut-sweetened shortbread laced with royal icing.)

Review: Rich, wonderful shortbread, with cocoanut in strong support. The royal icing is also strong and distinct, complimenting the shortbread beautifully. I loved this as a perfume oil, and am terribly pleased to be able to bath in it.

SPANKED 2012 (LE, BPTP, Candles, Yule): (Company says: Sado-masochistic holiday cheer: whip leather, cardamom, patchouli and bourbon.)

Review: As wonderful I’d hoped. Leather dominant, with patchouli support. The cardamom perfectly complements the bourbon, which sweetens it and makes it motre gloriously decadent.

TALVIKUU 2012 (LE,Yule): (Company says: Skeletal limbs of birch and fir coated in a thick, impenetrable blanket of snow. This is the death of the year personified).

In Bottle: The woods are dominant. Unfortunately, this is a peppermint based snow note, which is heartbreaking for me. I love the birch and fir combination, but peppermint and I can’t ever be friends and I don’t dare skin test. This is brilliant in concept though and a perfect winter trees scent for a peppermint lover.

THRIVE 2012 (LE, BPTP, Atmosphere Spray, Black Friday/Small biz Saturday/Cyber Monday freebie): (Company says: A warm, vibrant, prosperity-generating blend of ginger root, gingergrass, frankincense, cardamom, tonka, and hay absolute.

Review: Wow1 that is intense and unusual. I think I’m in love. The ginger root and grass blend beautifully with the cardamom. Wait a minute and the hay starts to come out, again doing a lovely dance with the spices. The frankincense comes out next, but without taking over the blend. The tonka is gentle, but ties things together sweetly.tonka. It really is a warm, vibrant blend as bracing as cold water on the face, but heartbreakingly beautiful in its sweet spicy glory. I can think of nothing like this, and it’s irreplaceable.



Winners: Jupitarian Phoenix
Runners Up: Thrive, Peter Quint