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Nov. 5th, 2011 11:00 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
gwydionWay back in September, before everything went to pieces, I sold a bunch of BPAL on ebay and bought some decants. They had component issues and illnesses at the lab, so the decants have been dribbling in the last week or two, long after I might have enjoyed them, along with a hand full of things that have come through sale or trade since then. Still here are the reviews from the last couple months:
The Frimps:
FALLEN (Sin and Salvation): (Company says: Cherubic white sandalwood and golden musk with a dark halo of amber, a breath of imperial florals, unbending woods, and the shadow cast by vetiver and violet.)
In bottle: Surprisingly attractive. Violet dominant, with florals supporting. I’d say amber is second, with vetiver and wood very understated. It’s lovely and delicate. (I can’t skin test due to vetiver).
FAUSTUS (Sin and Salvation): (Company says: An infusion of incalculable power and irresistible temptation. Truly an exercise in megalomania and self-gratification: frankincense and cinnamon, darkened by violet.).
In bottle: Frankincense dominant with an unusually dark and warm violet. I can barely get the cinnamon. This is lovely and darkly comforting in the bottle, but I’m not skin testing a my skin does terrible things to violet and frankincense.
GRANDMOTHER OF GHOSTS (Excolo): (Company says: Mania, Roman Goddess of the Dead, Matron of Madness, Governess of the Ancestral Spirits, Bestower of Divine Frenzy. Her scent swirls with a high-pitched tumult of laurel, stargazer lily, splintered woods, peony, mandarin and white musk, and is spiked with pale pepper.)
In bottle: A quite striking and complex lily dominant floral. The mandarin blends well with the flowers and gives a lovely tang. The pepper gives it an edge, the musk is soft and blends well with the florals It is a pale green and white sort of scent, very well designed. I very much like it, but my skin does terrible things to citrus, so I’m skipping the skin test.
THE HERAEON OF ARGOS 2010 (Halloweenie, The Pomegranate Patch Frimp): (Company says: Argive Hera. The temple in the Argolid that was dedicated to Hera, the Queen of Heaven, in her aspect as the Great Triple Goddess. Pomegranate, apple blossom, fig, willow bark, and almond.)
In bottle: Delicious. Pomegranate dominant. The apple blossoms blends beautifully with the pomegranate. The other elements are grounding and form a pleasant framework. Wet: not quite as nice on my skin, alas. The balance is nearly the same, with the almond a bit stronger. I think the almond is turning the pomegranate turns a little shrill on my skin. It settles out okay given time. The apple blossom ends up reasserting itself in support of the pomegranate which works out. Dry: Mostly apple blossom, fig, and what I’m guessing is the willow bark. Interesting, but not as exciting as in the bottle.
HIGH-STRUNG DAISIES (Mad Tea Party): (Company says: Daisy, pink carnation, pink pepper, and sugar.)
In bottle: Very, very pink, and also very sweet. Sugar and daisy are strongest, with the carnation an pepper putting a little spin on it. Wet: Very reminiscent of cotton candy. Yum. Yes, it’s floral, but the sugar/daisy mix turns to cotton candy accord on my skin. The carnation separates out a little. Dry: Slightly less cotton candy, as the elements separate, into fascinating individuals. I’m not a floral person, but I can’t sniff this enough.
THE JERSEY DEVIL (Bewitching Brews): (Company says: The scent of the wild, hauntingly beautiful Pine Barrens of New Jersey! Pitch pine with blackberry leaf, cranberry, cedar wood and tomato leaf.)
In bottle: Pine dominant. The blackberry, cedar, and leaves beautifully support and enrich the pine. The cranberry is soft and gives a gentle berry impression under all the sharp dark green woodiness. I’m really liking this. Wet: I didn’t think it was possible, but it’s even more interesting on the skin, as the woods and leaves each grow more distinct. The cranberry is very understated, but a clever addition as it rounds the fragrance without tipping it into foody. Dry: Not quite as brilliant on the dry down. I am having trouble figuring out what went wrong here. The cranberry is still pure. I’m still picking out cedar and a touch of pine, so my best guess is that one of the leaves when funny as it started to break down. It’s still wearable, but I’m a bit heartbroken that it’s not as brilliant as it seemed at first.
MASQUERADE (Bewitching Brews): (Company says: A festive, dazzling blend, layered in mystery and intrigue. Patchouli, ambergris, carnation and orange blossom.
In bottle: the carnation and orange blossom are strongly dominant. The patchouli and ambergris give it an earthy, slightly disreputable anchor. Not my thing, and given the notes best not to skin test.
QUEEN OF SHEBA (Ars Amatoria): (Company says: Her scent is a bounty of golden honeyed almonds and a whisper of African and Middle Eastern spices.)
In bottle: Strongly honeyed almonds. The spices sneak up on one with a savory bite. Fascinating and a little odd. Wet: Even quirkier on the skin. Still honeyed almond dominant, but the spices are stronger and there is the ghost of smoke. The spices go a little oddly on my skin and the almonds burn my skin a little. About half the time it’s lovely, about half the time it’s odd. Dry: The almond nearly disappears and the honey softens, leaving an interesting mix of spices.
Ordered:
#OCCUPYWALLSTREET (LE): (Company says: Rock the protester cliché! This is a filthy friggin' patchouli, dark, deep, rooty, and strangely sexy, with cocoa absolute, tobacco absolute, and bourbon vanilla.)
In bottle: They are not kidding about the patchouli. It’s a nice patchouli, but very strong. I do like what the vanilla and tobacco do with the patchouli, but I think I’d prefer a more balanced blend of elements. The cocoa is barely detectable. Wet: better on the skin, though still rather more patchouli than I’d choose for myself. The tobacco makes its move as it warms, and the cocoa starts to come out. The cocoa is deep, dark, and powdery, and is clever with this particular patchouli. I am not sure it’s going to work, but it certainly is interesting. Dry: I think this is officially way too much patchouli. I do think the tobacco and vanilla are lovely, even after the cocoa burns off, but the patchouli over balances everything and is just too chemical on my skin. It’s a shame.
ASHLULTUM (Carnaval Diabolique, Act IV: The Ladies of the Grindhouse): (Company says: Babylonian musk, vanilla tea, tonka, tobacco, coconut, hyssop, and lilac.)
In bottle: Apparently Babylonian musk is particularly sexy. The hyssop is strong. The lilac supports it beautifully. The vanilla tea goes well with the tobacco. Coconut and tonka are understated, but present. Wet: There is more tonka on the skin. The balance shifts dramatically, with a team of tonka, vanilla tea, and hyssop with a hint of tobacco and coconut forming up as dominant (notes listed strongest to weakest), while the musk and lilac hover in the background. It is more delicate and pretty on the skin, though there is an underlying sensuality. Dry: tea, musk, tonka, coconut mostly.
AUTUMN CIDER 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Fermented apple juice, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, clove, lemon zest, butterscotch liquor, and orange slices.)
In bottle: The description is pretty apt. It is an apple scent with the fizzy note I remember from the champagne series. The citrus gives it a pleasant tang. The spices are well blended with the rest of the notes, and the brown sugar and butterscotch liquor are a soft warm rumble in the background. If this were potable, I would so drink it. Wet: Not quite right on my skin. I often misparse fizz, and apparently, I’m amping the brown sugar, which throws the beautiful design out of balance. Then the cinnamon starts amping like wow, just as the brown sugar starts breaking down a little, and the apple starts to get lost under the cinnamon’s assault. I’m glad I got to smell it, but I’m just as glad I don’t own a bottle, as my skin chemistry turns the sense of the scent into nonsense. Heartbreaking as it is a very lovely design in the bottle. Dry: It comes out the other end absolutely lovely and better than in the bottle. With wear, the apple and brown sugar twine around eachother, all cosy and beautiful. The tart of the zest and the warmth of the orange still provide depth and zing on the way out. The spices, rearrange back into a more balanced blend, and the butterscotch liquor does the magic many hard liquors do with my skin. The fizz burns away entirely. The result is all warm and cozy. I’d be in love if it smelled tlike the dry down the whole time, but my skin chemistry makes that impossible.
BLOOD MOON 2011 (LE, Lunacy): (Company says: A Lunacy inspired by the magnificently morbid fantasies of Edgar Allan Poe: laudanum-stained linen scented by an ink-smeared tobacco musk and phantom bloodstains illuminated by monstrous moonlight.)
In bottle: Wow! This beautifully embodies it’s concept. It’s a complex scent poem about Poe. I love the Tobacco musk, which is just barely dominant over the laudanum/linen, the hints of ink, blood, and something soft that genuinely suggests moonlight all create exactly the picture the words suggest. Wet: slightly sweeter than in the bottle, and with the laudanum and tobacco dominant just barely over linen and musk. This is the best use of linen I’ve encountered so far in a scent, and the only instance in which I haven’t found it a touch cloying. I think the sweetness and the floral edge may be components from the moonlight amping. It’s elegant, delicious, and vaguely depraved. Glorious. Dry: Less flashy on the dry down. The linen note matures into a dry beauty, and the ink really shows at it’s best once the laudanum burns mostly down. The tobacco plays beautifully with what’s left of the sweetness and hint of florals of the moonlight. It suggests the study by moonlight after Poe himself has gone off to bet. Utterly lovely, but significantly less flashy than the wet version.
THE CHANGELING 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Blonde wood, linen swaddling, pumpkin rind, and bourbon vanilla.)
In bottle: The bourbon vanilla goes beautifully with the blonde wood. The linen is understated, but pleasant. The pumpkin rind is a touch problematic, but I have a history of trouble with pumpkin notes. It’s interesting, but I can’t tell if I like it. Wet: It starts out as in the bottle, but the rind quickly ramps up, which is a problem, as the stronger it is, the more my brain breaks it down into parts. It also does a little rotten. It’s heartbreaking as I think I’d love this otherwise. Dry: Most of the rind burns off and it’s this gorgeous heady blonde wood note, with touches of linen and the faintest kiss of bourbon vanilla. I think this one would be good to age. If it smelled like the dry down the whole way down, I’d be all over this.
THE GOROBBLE 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: A scent redolent of the crusty exterior of burnt marshmallows.)
In bottle: It is a particularly strong version of the lab’s marshmallow scent with a hint of toasting. If you liked other marshmallow scents, you will like this one, but if, say, Marshmallow poof wasn’t your thing, you will absolutely hate this. I like the marshmallow note, so as far as I’m concerned, it’s all good. Wet: Not quite as strong on my skin, alas. It’s still fairly pure marshmallow with a slightly toastier feel than in other scents. Yum. Dry: Breaks down a bit on the dry down into components, but they still play well together, so it’s all good.
OCTOBER 2011 (LE, Halloweenie): (Company says: Dry, cold autumn wind. A rustle of red leaves, a touch of smoke and sap in the air.)
In bottle: Mmmm…. Leaves. Lots and lots of freshly fallen leaves bruised underfoot. The hint of sap is an excellent complement to the dominent scent, and the understated atmospherics work. Wet: The leaves are still strongest, but the ozone and smoke ramp up a bit as it warms. It really does capture an October storm knocking leaves from the trees. I’ve been disappointed by a lot of Autumnals, but not this one. Dry: Alas, the bright beauty of the leaves goes flat and breaks down the way many leaf notes do, leaving the pieces to mingle with ozone tailings. I have still not found the perfect October scent to my great sorrow.
MITZVAH 2005 (LE, Yule, The Naughty or Nice Inquisition): (Company says: A sweet reward for a worthy deed: caramelized sugar and sweet cream.)
In bottle: The caramelized sugar creates a rich, nutty illusion hen added to the cream. This is delicious and stronger than expected. Wet: The caramelized sugar and cream separate a little on the skin, losing most of the nuttiness and edging towards creme brulee territory as an aggregate. It’s more subtle on the skin, and while I think I prefer it in bottle, this is certainly interesting. Dry: Long lasting, goes a touch nutty on the dry down, but I’m happy with that.
POST-MORTEM LAUREATUS 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: White sandalwood and twining ivy.)
In bottle: Much sweeter and juicier than I’d have expected. The ivy is dominent, but it’s a richer, wetter, livelier ivy than I was imagining. The sandalwood is soft and sweeter than I’d expected when combined with the ivy, and in this case, suggests dust as much as incense. Wet: The ivy is still dominant, but not as strongly as the skin warms up the sandalwood. I’m really liking this particular ivy. It’s beautiful and unusual, much warmer than I expected. Dry: A little odd on thedrydown, but still pleasant. Slightly dusty ivy.
PUMPKIN PRINCESS 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Before the Grand Dame was the Pumpkin Queen, she was a Pumpkin Princess! Bright, sweet pumpkin with vanilla fluff, guava, chocolate-dusted white amber, tiare, red currant, raw honey, and meringue.)
In bottle: I have had mostly bad luck with pumpkin, but gave it a test anyway because I’d never seen a meringue note, and I’m curious like that. The pumpkin note is the pumpkin note, particularly bright and strong in this setting. You pretty much have to love pumpkin for this to work for you, as it is so intense. The rest of the notes form two camps. The stronger camp is made up of vanilla fluff, amber, meringue, and what I’m guessing is the taire. (It looks to be a sort of gardenia, and that would account for the very soft, white floral impression). The other team is the fruit and honey. I do think the idea of putting a bright fruity spin on the pumpkin and all those light fluffy fragrances in team 2 is unusual and inspired. The problem is, I nearly always respond badly to the pumpkin note, and it is intense enough here, that skin testing is unwise. I do think it suits it’s concept, and for someone good with pumpkin fragrance, this would be a good addition to their collection.
REGINA EREBI 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, An Evening in Hades): (Company says:
The Queen of Hell: pomegranate, spear mint, black mulberry, and myrrh.)
In bottle: The pomegranate and mulberry go together beautifully and are strongly dominant as a pair. I’d say the mulberry is strongest of the two, but really they play so well together, it’s silly to separate them. The spearmint is a clever touch, giving it a crisp affect, while the myrrh is a soft growl underneath. Wet; The mulberry is even stronger on the skin. It still plays beautifully with the pomegranate which provides a rich support. The spearmint’s sharpness, if anything goes even better with the other elements, while the strengthened myrrh gives it a lovely darkness that perfectly suits the concept. Dry: The mulberries mostly burn off, leaving a softer drier pomegranate dominant blend with a strong spearming bite, and a hint of myrrh haunting it. Autumnal and dangerous. Yum.
SACRIFICE 2009 (LE, Vampire-Con): (Company says: The scent of a vampire cowboy: Sweetgrass and tumbleweeds, cedar and white sage, dusty, wet leather, woodsmoke, and blood.)
In bottle: This is unique as BPAlL desert scents go. I’d call the sage strongest by a hair, closely followed by what I’m guessing is sweet grass and tumbleweeds. I’d put woodsmoke and blood next, with the rest of the notes present, but less distinct. It’s gorgeous and very big sky and outdoors. It does it the concept and I wish there was something like this in the catalog as I’d love a whole bottle and there isn’t even enough to skin test here. I’m heartbroken there is not only no more, but nothing even close I can think of.
SONNET D'AUTOMNE 2011 (LE, Halloweenie): (Company says: Tenebrous Love: a shivering white musk with vanilla-infused white cocoa, amber incense, and dead, dry leaves.)
In bottle: The leaves are strongest. I suspect mint in the leaf accord. I’d but the musk at a distant second, with the other elements mostly subsumed in the leaf accord, but still discernible. Wet: Still leaf dominant with that distracting mintlike element. The amber incense and vanilla infused white cocoa are still entangled with each other but more noticeable as separate elements. This sweetens the blend slightly from the way it smells in the bottle. I think I like it more on the skin, especially as the leaf accord pulls together better as it warms. The musk stays soft, but pleasant enough. This does fit it’s concept well, and is one of the better attempts at capturing the scent and feel of autumn I’ve found. Dry: The leaves soften enough to let the musk and foody elements to rise. I’d still call leaves strongest, with the foody bits second, but it’s all more gentle and equitable.
THE WILEY GRASSER 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Pine needles, wildflowers, and cotton candy.)
In bottle: Not what I was expecting. The wildflowers turn out to not be a good mix for me and the cotton candy smells slightly chemical and plays badly with the pine needles. I’d call the cotton candy dominant. I think I’m going to be glad this was just a decant and not a bottle. Wet: It’s still not right, but in a different, even harder to define way. I’m suspecting the cotton candy accord broke down and mated in chaotic ways with the pine needles and various wild flowers. If I concentrate it, I can almost reassemble it, but it’s hard. The wild flowers are dominent. The core of the cotton candy that didn’t melt into other things is about tied with the pine/cotton candy hybrid that my nose is mis-parsing for strongest scents, though some of the wildflower hybrids are trying hard. As it wears a while, most of the cotton candy reassembles and actually does some interesting things with the wildflowers. This stage is much prettier than in bottle or after initial application. It’s still doing something peculiar with my skin chemistry that is similar to the peculiar thing my skin does with icing notes, so I’m guessing it has something to do with a particular sugar element. It is very delicate and floral at this stage, and increasingly pretty. Someone with different skin chemistry or a less peculiar way of breaking down scents could be wonderful in this. Dry: Generically pretty wildflowers with a touch of icing.
THE ZOOM 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Lime juice, bergamot, Himalayan cedarwood, helichrysum, and dragon’s blood resin.)
In bottle: Fascinating. I can think of no scent in the catalog even vaguely like this one. Google tells me helichrysum is a kind of sunflower, which makes sense, given the scent of the oil. The helichrysum and lime are strong and go together beautifully. I’d put bergamot second and a strong support for the dominant notes. The cedar does not smell like the standard note, though it’s interesting and woody. The dragon’s blood is soft and acting as a sort of glue to tie the notes together. This is very weird, but in an utterly fascinating way. Wet: It’s a touch ashy on my skin. It is also sweeter and higher pitched. I’m clearly not the ideal host. The bergamot has clearly made it’s move here and is forming a team with the sunflower and dragon’s blood. There is nothing wrong with that, but the tartness of the lime was much of what made this so compelling in the bottle and it’s softness on my skin really changes the balance. As it warms, the cedarwood strengthens and ends up the strongest note about ten minutes in. The cedarwood is beautiful, by the way. I’m terribly sad about how this one wears as ultimately, it’s just not quite right on my skin. I blame my peculiar skin chemistry and not the scent design. Dry: in order from strongest to softest: cedarwood, sunflower, bergamot, ewith the others just barely present.
Room Spray:
BASIL HALLWARD”S STUDIO (LE, BPTP, Unreleased - Atmospheric Linen & Room Spray): (Company says:
Gently floral with a little aftershave, possibly a fougere, and something woody. It’s a really familiar flower from my mother’s garden, but which is slipping my mind. It’s very sweet and white and purple, richly sensual and far from common place. (Lily and crocus and rose together maybe? Something like that. I’m bad at remembering which flower ids which scent wise).
Winners: Blood Moon 2011, Sacrifice
Runners Up: High-Strung Daisies, Regina Erebi, Jersey Devil, Gorobble
* For sale on ebay: BPAL 29 Imp and 3 Partial bottle Lot LE and GC, Revenge Squirt Added: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300619974391
I've got a few things left in the swap cupboard, but no hope of selling them this soon, plus a few Le decants, I always hold over to seed the next imp lot. I need to go through my collection and pick more things to sell, I think, maybe put a good partial lot together.
The Frimps:
FALLEN (Sin and Salvation): (Company says: Cherubic white sandalwood and golden musk with a dark halo of amber, a breath of imperial florals, unbending woods, and the shadow cast by vetiver and violet.)
In bottle: Surprisingly attractive. Violet dominant, with florals supporting. I’d say amber is second, with vetiver and wood very understated. It’s lovely and delicate. (I can’t skin test due to vetiver).
FAUSTUS (Sin and Salvation): (Company says: An infusion of incalculable power and irresistible temptation. Truly an exercise in megalomania and self-gratification: frankincense and cinnamon, darkened by violet.).
In bottle: Frankincense dominant with an unusually dark and warm violet. I can barely get the cinnamon. This is lovely and darkly comforting in the bottle, but I’m not skin testing a my skin does terrible things to violet and frankincense.
GRANDMOTHER OF GHOSTS (Excolo): (Company says: Mania, Roman Goddess of the Dead, Matron of Madness, Governess of the Ancestral Spirits, Bestower of Divine Frenzy. Her scent swirls with a high-pitched tumult of laurel, stargazer lily, splintered woods, peony, mandarin and white musk, and is spiked with pale pepper.)
In bottle: A quite striking and complex lily dominant floral. The mandarin blends well with the flowers and gives a lovely tang. The pepper gives it an edge, the musk is soft and blends well with the florals It is a pale green and white sort of scent, very well designed. I very much like it, but my skin does terrible things to citrus, so I’m skipping the skin test.
THE HERAEON OF ARGOS 2010 (Halloweenie, The Pomegranate Patch Frimp): (Company says: Argive Hera. The temple in the Argolid that was dedicated to Hera, the Queen of Heaven, in her aspect as the Great Triple Goddess. Pomegranate, apple blossom, fig, willow bark, and almond.)
In bottle: Delicious. Pomegranate dominant. The apple blossoms blends beautifully with the pomegranate. The other elements are grounding and form a pleasant framework. Wet: not quite as nice on my skin, alas. The balance is nearly the same, with the almond a bit stronger. I think the almond is turning the pomegranate turns a little shrill on my skin. It settles out okay given time. The apple blossom ends up reasserting itself in support of the pomegranate which works out. Dry: Mostly apple blossom, fig, and what I’m guessing is the willow bark. Interesting, but not as exciting as in the bottle.
HIGH-STRUNG DAISIES (Mad Tea Party): (Company says: Daisy, pink carnation, pink pepper, and sugar.)
In bottle: Very, very pink, and also very sweet. Sugar and daisy are strongest, with the carnation an pepper putting a little spin on it. Wet: Very reminiscent of cotton candy. Yum. Yes, it’s floral, but the sugar/daisy mix turns to cotton candy accord on my skin. The carnation separates out a little. Dry: Slightly less cotton candy, as the elements separate, into fascinating individuals. I’m not a floral person, but I can’t sniff this enough.
THE JERSEY DEVIL (Bewitching Brews): (Company says: The scent of the wild, hauntingly beautiful Pine Barrens of New Jersey! Pitch pine with blackberry leaf, cranberry, cedar wood and tomato leaf.)
In bottle: Pine dominant. The blackberry, cedar, and leaves beautifully support and enrich the pine. The cranberry is soft and gives a gentle berry impression under all the sharp dark green woodiness. I’m really liking this. Wet: I didn’t think it was possible, but it’s even more interesting on the skin, as the woods and leaves each grow more distinct. The cranberry is very understated, but a clever addition as it rounds the fragrance without tipping it into foody. Dry: Not quite as brilliant on the dry down. I am having trouble figuring out what went wrong here. The cranberry is still pure. I’m still picking out cedar and a touch of pine, so my best guess is that one of the leaves when funny as it started to break down. It’s still wearable, but I’m a bit heartbroken that it’s not as brilliant as it seemed at first.
MASQUERADE (Bewitching Brews): (Company says: A festive, dazzling blend, layered in mystery and intrigue. Patchouli, ambergris, carnation and orange blossom.
In bottle: the carnation and orange blossom are strongly dominant. The patchouli and ambergris give it an earthy, slightly disreputable anchor. Not my thing, and given the notes best not to skin test.
QUEEN OF SHEBA (Ars Amatoria): (Company says: Her scent is a bounty of golden honeyed almonds and a whisper of African and Middle Eastern spices.)
In bottle: Strongly honeyed almonds. The spices sneak up on one with a savory bite. Fascinating and a little odd. Wet: Even quirkier on the skin. Still honeyed almond dominant, but the spices are stronger and there is the ghost of smoke. The spices go a little oddly on my skin and the almonds burn my skin a little. About half the time it’s lovely, about half the time it’s odd. Dry: The almond nearly disappears and the honey softens, leaving an interesting mix of spices.
Ordered:
#OCCUPYWALLSTREET (LE): (Company says: Rock the protester cliché! This is a filthy friggin' patchouli, dark, deep, rooty, and strangely sexy, with cocoa absolute, tobacco absolute, and bourbon vanilla.)
In bottle: They are not kidding about the patchouli. It’s a nice patchouli, but very strong. I do like what the vanilla and tobacco do with the patchouli, but I think I’d prefer a more balanced blend of elements. The cocoa is barely detectable. Wet: better on the skin, though still rather more patchouli than I’d choose for myself. The tobacco makes its move as it warms, and the cocoa starts to come out. The cocoa is deep, dark, and powdery, and is clever with this particular patchouli. I am not sure it’s going to work, but it certainly is interesting. Dry: I think this is officially way too much patchouli. I do think the tobacco and vanilla are lovely, even after the cocoa burns off, but the patchouli over balances everything and is just too chemical on my skin. It’s a shame.
ASHLULTUM (Carnaval Diabolique, Act IV: The Ladies of the Grindhouse): (Company says: Babylonian musk, vanilla tea, tonka, tobacco, coconut, hyssop, and lilac.)
In bottle: Apparently Babylonian musk is particularly sexy. The hyssop is strong. The lilac supports it beautifully. The vanilla tea goes well with the tobacco. Coconut and tonka are understated, but present. Wet: There is more tonka on the skin. The balance shifts dramatically, with a team of tonka, vanilla tea, and hyssop with a hint of tobacco and coconut forming up as dominant (notes listed strongest to weakest), while the musk and lilac hover in the background. It is more delicate and pretty on the skin, though there is an underlying sensuality. Dry: tea, musk, tonka, coconut mostly.
AUTUMN CIDER 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Fermented apple juice, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, clove, lemon zest, butterscotch liquor, and orange slices.)
In bottle: The description is pretty apt. It is an apple scent with the fizzy note I remember from the champagne series. The citrus gives it a pleasant tang. The spices are well blended with the rest of the notes, and the brown sugar and butterscotch liquor are a soft warm rumble in the background. If this were potable, I would so drink it. Wet: Not quite right on my skin. I often misparse fizz, and apparently, I’m amping the brown sugar, which throws the beautiful design out of balance. Then the cinnamon starts amping like wow, just as the brown sugar starts breaking down a little, and the apple starts to get lost under the cinnamon’s assault. I’m glad I got to smell it, but I’m just as glad I don’t own a bottle, as my skin chemistry turns the sense of the scent into nonsense. Heartbreaking as it is a very lovely design in the bottle. Dry: It comes out the other end absolutely lovely and better than in the bottle. With wear, the apple and brown sugar twine around eachother, all cosy and beautiful. The tart of the zest and the warmth of the orange still provide depth and zing on the way out. The spices, rearrange back into a more balanced blend, and the butterscotch liquor does the magic many hard liquors do with my skin. The fizz burns away entirely. The result is all warm and cozy. I’d be in love if it smelled tlike the dry down the whole time, but my skin chemistry makes that impossible.
BLOOD MOON 2011 (LE, Lunacy): (Company says: A Lunacy inspired by the magnificently morbid fantasies of Edgar Allan Poe: laudanum-stained linen scented by an ink-smeared tobacco musk and phantom bloodstains illuminated by monstrous moonlight.)
In bottle: Wow! This beautifully embodies it’s concept. It’s a complex scent poem about Poe. I love the Tobacco musk, which is just barely dominant over the laudanum/linen, the hints of ink, blood, and something soft that genuinely suggests moonlight all create exactly the picture the words suggest. Wet: slightly sweeter than in the bottle, and with the laudanum and tobacco dominant just barely over linen and musk. This is the best use of linen I’ve encountered so far in a scent, and the only instance in which I haven’t found it a touch cloying. I think the sweetness and the floral edge may be components from the moonlight amping. It’s elegant, delicious, and vaguely depraved. Glorious. Dry: Less flashy on the dry down. The linen note matures into a dry beauty, and the ink really shows at it’s best once the laudanum burns mostly down. The tobacco plays beautifully with what’s left of the sweetness and hint of florals of the moonlight. It suggests the study by moonlight after Poe himself has gone off to bet. Utterly lovely, but significantly less flashy than the wet version.
THE CHANGELING 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Blonde wood, linen swaddling, pumpkin rind, and bourbon vanilla.)
In bottle: The bourbon vanilla goes beautifully with the blonde wood. The linen is understated, but pleasant. The pumpkin rind is a touch problematic, but I have a history of trouble with pumpkin notes. It’s interesting, but I can’t tell if I like it. Wet: It starts out as in the bottle, but the rind quickly ramps up, which is a problem, as the stronger it is, the more my brain breaks it down into parts. It also does a little rotten. It’s heartbreaking as I think I’d love this otherwise. Dry: Most of the rind burns off and it’s this gorgeous heady blonde wood note, with touches of linen and the faintest kiss of bourbon vanilla. I think this one would be good to age. If it smelled like the dry down the whole way down, I’d be all over this.
THE GOROBBLE 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: A scent redolent of the crusty exterior of burnt marshmallows.)
In bottle: It is a particularly strong version of the lab’s marshmallow scent with a hint of toasting. If you liked other marshmallow scents, you will like this one, but if, say, Marshmallow poof wasn’t your thing, you will absolutely hate this. I like the marshmallow note, so as far as I’m concerned, it’s all good. Wet: Not quite as strong on my skin, alas. It’s still fairly pure marshmallow with a slightly toastier feel than in other scents. Yum. Dry: Breaks down a bit on the dry down into components, but they still play well together, so it’s all good.
OCTOBER 2011 (LE, Halloweenie): (Company says: Dry, cold autumn wind. A rustle of red leaves, a touch of smoke and sap in the air.)
In bottle: Mmmm…. Leaves. Lots and lots of freshly fallen leaves bruised underfoot. The hint of sap is an excellent complement to the dominent scent, and the understated atmospherics work. Wet: The leaves are still strongest, but the ozone and smoke ramp up a bit as it warms. It really does capture an October storm knocking leaves from the trees. I’ve been disappointed by a lot of Autumnals, but not this one. Dry: Alas, the bright beauty of the leaves goes flat and breaks down the way many leaf notes do, leaving the pieces to mingle with ozone tailings. I have still not found the perfect October scent to my great sorrow.
MITZVAH 2005 (LE, Yule, The Naughty or Nice Inquisition): (Company says: A sweet reward for a worthy deed: caramelized sugar and sweet cream.)
In bottle: The caramelized sugar creates a rich, nutty illusion hen added to the cream. This is delicious and stronger than expected. Wet: The caramelized sugar and cream separate a little on the skin, losing most of the nuttiness and edging towards creme brulee territory as an aggregate. It’s more subtle on the skin, and while I think I prefer it in bottle, this is certainly interesting. Dry: Long lasting, goes a touch nutty on the dry down, but I’m happy with that.
POST-MORTEM LAUREATUS 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: White sandalwood and twining ivy.)
In bottle: Much sweeter and juicier than I’d have expected. The ivy is dominent, but it’s a richer, wetter, livelier ivy than I was imagining. The sandalwood is soft and sweeter than I’d expected when combined with the ivy, and in this case, suggests dust as much as incense. Wet: The ivy is still dominant, but not as strongly as the skin warms up the sandalwood. I’m really liking this particular ivy. It’s beautiful and unusual, much warmer than I expected. Dry: A little odd on thedrydown, but still pleasant. Slightly dusty ivy.
PUMPKIN PRINCESS 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Before the Grand Dame was the Pumpkin Queen, she was a Pumpkin Princess! Bright, sweet pumpkin with vanilla fluff, guava, chocolate-dusted white amber, tiare, red currant, raw honey, and meringue.)
In bottle: I have had mostly bad luck with pumpkin, but gave it a test anyway because I’d never seen a meringue note, and I’m curious like that. The pumpkin note is the pumpkin note, particularly bright and strong in this setting. You pretty much have to love pumpkin for this to work for you, as it is so intense. The rest of the notes form two camps. The stronger camp is made up of vanilla fluff, amber, meringue, and what I’m guessing is the taire. (It looks to be a sort of gardenia, and that would account for the very soft, white floral impression). The other team is the fruit and honey. I do think the idea of putting a bright fruity spin on the pumpkin and all those light fluffy fragrances in team 2 is unusual and inspired. The problem is, I nearly always respond badly to the pumpkin note, and it is intense enough here, that skin testing is unwise. I do think it suits it’s concept, and for someone good with pumpkin fragrance, this would be a good addition to their collection.
REGINA EREBI 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, An Evening in Hades): (Company says:
The Queen of Hell: pomegranate, spear mint, black mulberry, and myrrh.)
In bottle: The pomegranate and mulberry go together beautifully and are strongly dominant as a pair. I’d say the mulberry is strongest of the two, but really they play so well together, it’s silly to separate them. The spearmint is a clever touch, giving it a crisp affect, while the myrrh is a soft growl underneath. Wet; The mulberry is even stronger on the skin. It still plays beautifully with the pomegranate which provides a rich support. The spearmint’s sharpness, if anything goes even better with the other elements, while the strengthened myrrh gives it a lovely darkness that perfectly suits the concept. Dry: The mulberries mostly burn off, leaving a softer drier pomegranate dominant blend with a strong spearming bite, and a hint of myrrh haunting it. Autumnal and dangerous. Yum.
SACRIFICE 2009 (LE, Vampire-Con): (Company says: The scent of a vampire cowboy: Sweetgrass and tumbleweeds, cedar and white sage, dusty, wet leather, woodsmoke, and blood.)
In bottle: This is unique as BPAlL desert scents go. I’d call the sage strongest by a hair, closely followed by what I’m guessing is sweet grass and tumbleweeds. I’d put woodsmoke and blood next, with the rest of the notes present, but less distinct. It’s gorgeous and very big sky and outdoors. It does it the concept and I wish there was something like this in the catalog as I’d love a whole bottle and there isn’t even enough to skin test here. I’m heartbroken there is not only no more, but nothing even close I can think of.
SONNET D'AUTOMNE 2011 (LE, Halloweenie): (Company says: Tenebrous Love: a shivering white musk with vanilla-infused white cocoa, amber incense, and dead, dry leaves.)
In bottle: The leaves are strongest. I suspect mint in the leaf accord. I’d but the musk at a distant second, with the other elements mostly subsumed in the leaf accord, but still discernible. Wet: Still leaf dominant with that distracting mintlike element. The amber incense and vanilla infused white cocoa are still entangled with each other but more noticeable as separate elements. This sweetens the blend slightly from the way it smells in the bottle. I think I like it more on the skin, especially as the leaf accord pulls together better as it warms. The musk stays soft, but pleasant enough. This does fit it’s concept well, and is one of the better attempts at capturing the scent and feel of autumn I’ve found. Dry: The leaves soften enough to let the musk and foody elements to rise. I’d still call leaves strongest, with the foody bits second, but it’s all more gentle and equitable.
THE WILEY GRASSER 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Pine needles, wildflowers, and cotton candy.)
In bottle: Not what I was expecting. The wildflowers turn out to not be a good mix for me and the cotton candy smells slightly chemical and plays badly with the pine needles. I’d call the cotton candy dominant. I think I’m going to be glad this was just a decant and not a bottle. Wet: It’s still not right, but in a different, even harder to define way. I’m suspecting the cotton candy accord broke down and mated in chaotic ways with the pine needles and various wild flowers. If I concentrate it, I can almost reassemble it, but it’s hard. The wild flowers are dominent. The core of the cotton candy that didn’t melt into other things is about tied with the pine/cotton candy hybrid that my nose is mis-parsing for strongest scents, though some of the wildflower hybrids are trying hard. As it wears a while, most of the cotton candy reassembles and actually does some interesting things with the wildflowers. This stage is much prettier than in bottle or after initial application. It’s still doing something peculiar with my skin chemistry that is similar to the peculiar thing my skin does with icing notes, so I’m guessing it has something to do with a particular sugar element. It is very delicate and floral at this stage, and increasingly pretty. Someone with different skin chemistry or a less peculiar way of breaking down scents could be wonderful in this. Dry: Generically pretty wildflowers with a touch of icing.
THE ZOOM 2011 (LE, Halloweenie, Pickman Gallery: Torment & Reverie): (Company says: Lime juice, bergamot, Himalayan cedarwood, helichrysum, and dragon’s blood resin.)
In bottle: Fascinating. I can think of no scent in the catalog even vaguely like this one. Google tells me helichrysum is a kind of sunflower, which makes sense, given the scent of the oil. The helichrysum and lime are strong and go together beautifully. I’d put bergamot second and a strong support for the dominant notes. The cedar does not smell like the standard note, though it’s interesting and woody. The dragon’s blood is soft and acting as a sort of glue to tie the notes together. This is very weird, but in an utterly fascinating way. Wet: It’s a touch ashy on my skin. It is also sweeter and higher pitched. I’m clearly not the ideal host. The bergamot has clearly made it’s move here and is forming a team with the sunflower and dragon’s blood. There is nothing wrong with that, but the tartness of the lime was much of what made this so compelling in the bottle and it’s softness on my skin really changes the balance. As it warms, the cedarwood strengthens and ends up the strongest note about ten minutes in. The cedarwood is beautiful, by the way. I’m terribly sad about how this one wears as ultimately, it’s just not quite right on my skin. I blame my peculiar skin chemistry and not the scent design. Dry: in order from strongest to softest: cedarwood, sunflower, bergamot, ewith the others just barely present.
Room Spray:
BASIL HALLWARD”S STUDIO (LE, BPTP, Unreleased - Atmospheric Linen & Room Spray): (Company says:
Gently floral with a little aftershave, possibly a fougere, and something woody. It’s a really familiar flower from my mother’s garden, but which is slipping my mind. It’s very sweet and white and purple, richly sensual and far from common place. (Lily and crocus and rose together maybe? Something like that. I’m bad at remembering which flower ids which scent wise).
Winners: Blood Moon 2011, Sacrifice
Runners Up: High-Strung Daisies, Regina Erebi, Jersey Devil, Gorobble
* For sale on ebay: BPAL 29 Imp and 3 Partial bottle Lot LE and GC, Revenge Squirt Added: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300619974391
I've got a few things left in the swap cupboard, but no hope of selling them this soon, plus a few Le decants, I always hold over to seed the next imp lot. I need to go through my collection and pick more things to sell, I think, maybe put a good partial lot together.